Process of making stitch-down shoes.



A. H. PRENZEL. I PROCESS OF MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 21. I913.

1,191,534. Q v IzitentedJulylS,1916.

/WT/VESSES.

ADAM n. rnnnznn, or namr'sx, IEENNSYLVANIA, assrenon T onrrnn snon MACHINERY COMPANY, or rarnnson, NEW JERSEY, a oonrona'rion or new ERSEY.

v PRENZEL, a. citizen of the United States, residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements 1n Processes of Making Stitch- Down Shoes, of which the following de' scription, in connection with theacconipanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates ,to processes ofmaking shoes and has for its general object to provide an improved process, of manufac-- turing'stitchdown shoes. I

Stitch-down shoes, as they have been manufactured up to the present time, may be classified enerally as single sole stitchdowns, iWhlC cannot be repaired without relasting, and double sole stitch-downs,

' which have the upper secured to an insole as Well as to an outsole and which can therefore be repaired, so far as replacing the out sole is concerned, Without relasting. in the manufacture of both kinds of stitch-down shoes, little attention has been paid to the support of the upper upon the inside of the .shoe and to the proper shaping of the shoe with the result that stitch-down shoes are generally in disfavor,

One of the objects of the present invention is so to facilitate the making of stitchdown shoes that, Without increasing ma tcrially the cost of shoes of that type, their appearance, fit and wearing qualities may be the production of a stitch-down shoe which i is especially adapted to be manufactured by the staple lasting process and which, when so manufactured, has substantially every appearance and substantially all the qualities of the best grades of shoes.

The novel shoe produced by the process of the present invention is not claimed herein but forms the subject matter of'my copending application Serial No. 861,821, filed September 15, 1914, which co-pcnding application is a cation. I 7

ther objects and important features of Specification of Letters Patent.

of its connection with the outsole.

division of the present appli PROCESS OF MAKTIJG STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

Patented July as, rain.

Application filed May 21, 1913. Serial No. 768,974.

the invention will appear from the following description and claims when considered in connection with the accompanying drawings,'in which- Figure l is a perspective View, partly in section, showing the construction of, and the mode of preparing, the insole employed in the manufacture of the shoe of this invention; Fig. 2, by section and elevation, shows the manner of lasting the shoe and of se- I curing the insole to the upper; and Fig. 3

shows, in broken perspective, a completed shoe and, in section, the relative positions of the different parts of, the shoe Fig. 4 shows a cross section of the insole.

In order that the shoe may be resolecl without relasting, it is essential that the upper be secured to an insole independently It is important also, in order that the upper may keep its shape as it is warn, that there be provided upon the inside of. the upper some support above the point or line Where the upper is bent outwardly to form the outturne'd flange by which it is secured to the insole and outsole.

To provide an insole to which the upper may be secured independently of its attachprovide means for supporting the upper upon the inside and furthermore to provide ment to the outs le and at the same time to a shoulder or a crease against which or into i which the upper may be forced in the lastmg operation is one of. the objects of the invention, the invention aiming particularly to provide these elements without increasing materially either thematerial cost or the labor cost of manufacturing the shoe.

In Fig. l is shown the insole provided with the upper supporting means, this insole being preferably formed, as shown in Fig. l, by providing the usual so-called eX- tension insole 2, that is, an insole .which will extend to the edge of the outsole, and

securing to this extension insole an insole the foot, a fill'ing pieoe 8 of felt, felt paper or other suitable material is -prefiarably in- 'tcrposed between the insole proper 4 anti the extension insole 2, this piece, as shown in l igs. l, 2 and 3, being located inside on? the. stitches 10 by which the insole i: has been secured to the extension insole 2, although it Will be obvious that this piece can extend, if desired, out for enough so that the stitches 10 will pass through'it and so that it will tend to separate the two insole parts to open the crease to facilitate the lasting operation. lhis alternative construction is shown in Fig. 4..

It will be noted that the stitches 10 secure the insole proper in to the extension insole 2 only in the shank and throughout the form part. At the heel end the insole 4 is preferably left unattached to the extension insole 2 to furnish a tongue 12 over which the heel end of the upper 21ml the counter may be turned in and lasted clown, the lasting tacks being driven through and clenched upon the upper face of the tongue 12. At the point 'Wl181'6 the inturnecl and outturneclportions of the upper meet, the upper is preferably slit in from its etlge in a well-known man ner.

The insole, having been preporecl in the manner shown in Fig. 1., is placed upon the hottoin face of the last so that the edges of the insole proper 45 are substantially flush with the edges of the bottom face of the last. The upper is then placed upon the lust, (lrewn over the edge oi? the lust 'l'orcecl into the crease between the edge of the insole pi oper and. the upper face of the often sioi'i insole 2. and preferably secured to the extension insole 2- by staples lit driven into angle of upper and through the insole 9 and clone l upon the bottom face of se'i-Ll insole This operation may conveniently be performed upon e lusting mechine of type shown in my co-pending application Serial No. 736,079 filed December 11, 1912 upon which were granted. United States Letters latent No. 1.117345%, dated November 1'2, 1914i.

The shoe having been lasted in the manner just described and shown in F 2, an outsole 13 is placed upon the lw toinfuce of the extension insole 2, the Welt 1G is laid upon the outtui'ned flange of the upper, and the Welt, upper, extension edge of the extension insole 2 and the outsole are united by stitches 18. The well; 16 and the stitches 18 extend preferably from a point just heyoncl Where the heel end of the upper is lasted. in upon one side of the shoe to a similar point upon the other side of the shoe. The heel 20 is then pleceol upon the heel end of the shoe. The heel. end-5220f the extension insole, the heel end of the outsole l3 and the heel are all united by nails tlriven through these parts and also through the tongue and, clenched upon the inside of attached to the la? the shoe.

nailed, independently of the nails secure the heel before the heel is upon the shoe.

From the foregoing description anti the drawings it will be apparent that shoe may be made With coinpemtively i' labor, that the formation of the insole not require the use of expo i Y obtain the most satisfactory re of the operations in the shoe can he performed by chinery, that the parts oi confined insicle and out not teiul. readily to lose its L Worn, anal that when the outscle the upper is secured firmly 8.21.. ently in its lasted; position tl Having clescrih cl my invent claim as new and desire to 1. That iinpitov stitch-(flown shoes ich compi' :ni insole by attaching to a. mensions of th shape to fit inside the u pen, portion of said sole be attached to tie sole ri D. lower margin oi? the upper fore n. of the upper between I face of the smaller E; u i

the le gei' sole the upper an outsolc to suicl 111 per ens insol i; iinpi'ovei ingstitchlown she" ing on insole by Lo 9 u so. stentially the dii'nensions of the sole of a, entl to upper, the inurg'inel. portion of s: sole being left unattached to th W assembling Sui ll. insole encl scil'l L l a last, turning out the lower inei" upper and forcing the un le o between the lower maiginsl smaller sole the upper face o1? sole, perinenen "y seeming the in location loy's spies insei? insole, and secuiing en outsole- W- sole and upper.

3. That improvement in the 1 4 shoes which comprises {ONE} l. attaching sole of subs; niensions o the outsolesole eshupe to "it inside the upper one. betweenv these two so es before united filling pie r of soil smaller sole eclge of said filling j lower margin of the up;.. of lljgjllef between fade ofthe smaller sole and the upper face 0f the larger 501e, permanently securing the upper in this position, placing a Welt upontHe outturned margin of-the upper with its inner edge extendlng into said angle, and securing an ontsele to said welt, upper and insole.

In'test imony whereof I hdi 'e signed my 

